Volcán Acatenango

The official entrance to Volcán Acatenango.

I climbed a volcano.  It's still hard to explain this experience, so here are some answers to frequent questions I've received:

Yes, this was a real volcano
Yes, this volcano still 'had life'
No, it didn't shoot lava at me
Yes, it was very, very cool
Yes, it was very hard
Yes, it was worth it

We had this activity planned well before we got to Guatemala since we had to pack accordingly.  We even spoke with a few different tour companies before deciding to book our trip with a local, licensed guide who had about 15 years of experience.  We thought we knew what we were getting ourselves into- a 3 hour hike to base camp, a 1 hour hike to the summit, all food and shelter provided, and entry fee included.  Boy were we in for a surprise....

Some background information on this volcano is much needed before I explain our hiking experience.  To begin, Volcán Acetenango is the third highest peak in Central America and the second highest peak in Guatemala .  This stratovolcano was not one for beginners and yet we stupidly decided to climb it.  So how did we manage to climb this 3,976m tall volcano with no prior training?  The answer is pure, stupid willpower.

The Ascent 
Our journey began around 5am when the tour guide picked us up from a pre-determined meeting point.  The van drove us to the tour guide's house at the base of the volcano where he graciously fed us a hearty breakfast.  During breakfast, our guide clearly explained what we should expect during the next 36 hours.  He made sure we were properly dressed, had all our supplies and food inside our hiking packs, and sent us on our way.

The van then dropped us off at the very base of this volcano.  Standing from the base and looking towards the top of the volcano wasn't very intimidating to us- the summit didn't look too far away!  Little did we know that we weren't actually able to see the summit since the clouds were blocking our view... Although we started our trek bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, we became out of breath after only 15 minutes on the trail.

The terrain we were hiking on is hard to describe.  It was a mix of sand, ash, small rocks, and in many parts it was as deep as our ankles.  This made the trek harder than expected since we were hiking in loose sand at an approximate 45 degree angle.  The environment also changed rapidly during our ascent.  We climbed through rolling meadows, a lush rain forest, the 'dead forest', and finally the rocky summit.

This climb took us approximately 7 hours to reach our basecamp.  I'm not sure exactly how high our basecamp was, but it was high enough that you could feel the altitude pressing on your chest and the weather was COLD.

Basecamp (overnight)
As soon as we reached our camp, our guide encouraged us to rest, unpack our stuff, and eat a snack before our 'sunset hike'. The guide obviously thought that our 7-hour hike wasn't enough for the day and that the 3:40am wake-up call would be a breeze.

Our base camp overlooking the clouds and town below.

Our rudimentary camp looked like what you see pictured here.  Simple tents with plastic tarps stretched across the top lined the only flat part of the volcano I had seen. It was simple but functional and contained everything that we would need for the next 18 hours (or so). 

Our mostly horizontal sunset hike led us to a grassy area where we watched Volcán de Fuego erupt with the sun setting in the background.  This was an extraordinary view and amazing photo opportunity!

After we hiked back to our camp, our guide cooked us dinner over the fire as we learned more about each other.  Our guide even provided us with a never-ending supply of marshmallows and hot chocolate for dessert!  As we were eating our dessert, the temperature continued to drop.  We were thankful for the fire, but we unanimously decided to retire to the warmth of our sleeping bags.

View of Volcán de Fuego erupting from inside our tents.

We quickly changed clothes and got ready for bed. That night, I fell into a restless sleep listening to Fuego's mighty roar.  (Look closely at this picture if you want to see the bathroom we used!  It was a tarp covering a hole in the ground with a wooden pallet as our seat.  Before we used the bathroom, our guide warned us that it 'wasn't good for women'.  Boy, was he right!)

The Summit
Waking up the morning of the hike to the summit was hard- almost harder than the hike itself!  We got little sleep the night before from listening to Volcan de Fuego erupt in all its glory and from the freezing temperatures.  I slept fully clothed inside my sleeping bag, covered up with another sleeping bag, and still snuggled with my tent partner for warmth.  We woke up cold and sore, and the altitude was doing a number on us.  We hadn't acclimated properly so it was hard to breathe due to the pressure weighing on our chests. This was a normal symptom of acute mountain sickness (AMS) and made the climb feel impossible.

Summit of Volcán Acatenango, Guatemala at 6:30am. 

We embarked well before sunrise and the lava from Fuego helped illuminate our path.  Frequent breaks and an incredibly encouraging guide helped make the 60 degree incline bearable.  Finally, we reached the top and were rewarded with breathtaking views.  The top of the volcano was like nothing I had ever experienced before.  It had 4 separate peaks, a collapsed center, and black sand that was reminiscent of the surface of the moon....

At the top, our guide told us some surprising information.  The first was that people carry their bicycles and motorbikes to the summit to drive around.  These are the thrill-seekers who aren't satisfied after conquering the 3rd highest peak in Central America.   We were hesitant to believe him until he pointed out the tire tracks made by the bikes...


The other surprising fact came about after I inquired about the crosses at the top.  Our guide politely explained that in 2017, 6 hikers died after the weather unexpectedly took
a turn for the worse.  The hikers endured rain, snow, freezing temperatures, and high winds that ultimately caused them to die from hypothermia.  After a search and rescue mission was conducted, all 6 hikers were found on the side of the volcano and are now remembered by the crosses at the summit. 

The Descent
The descent from the summit to the basecamp is definitely something to note.  Although it took us roughly 2 hours to ascend from the basecamp to the summit, it only took us about 30 minutes to descend run back to basecamp.  We were literally running and sliding down this volcano in loose sand that completely swallowed our feet. I kid you not.  The same 60 degree angle we were originally climbing up on our hands and knees we were now sliding down. 

View of Volcán de Fuego during our descent. 

Of course, the view from the side of the volcano slightly made up for the terrifying fact that we were sliding down its 60 degree slope!  We spent plenty of time recording each other sliding and falling down the volcano and before we knew it, we were at basecamp.  Back at camp, we packed up our supplies for the last time and ate a hearty breakfast together.

Our guide informed us that our final descent would only take about 3 hours and that we needed to get moving.  We were happy to hear that the final descent would be quick, and even happier to hear that the descent included more sliding.  We took turns helping each other during the tough parts and barely had to stop for breaks.  This was the easiest part of the trip by far!  We were simply enjoying the beautiful weather, the incredible scenery, and the occasional wipe-out due to the slippery terrain.  These 3 hours absolutely flew by and before we knew it, we were sliding down the last stretch that led to the main road.  Across the road, our driver was patiently waiting for us with a van that would escort us back to their house. 

The driver talked with us the whole ride back and eagerly listened to all of our stories.  Back at the house, we were escorted to some chairs and tables where a group of women fed us snacks.  Thankful for the snacks and brief break, we decided to take advantage of the running water to wash our hands and faces.  After looking cleaner (but not smelling cleaner), we took final group pictures and parted ways. 

Back at the hostel, my group quickly showered and decided to nap for a few hours.  We had more activities planned, but needed to recoup before our next outing.  This is a trip I will never forget and I'm thankful I had great friends who called my bluff when I suggested hiking a volcano.  It turned out to be the experience of a lifetime.